Kulajda (pronounced coo-lie-duh) is one of the most interesting and dynamic soups you will discover when visiting Czechia. It is a brightly colored dish, thanks to a heavy hand with fresh dill, that achieves a sophisticated balance of tangy, sweet, and salty flavors. While it may look humble, it is a masterclass in how simple, forest-floor ingredients can be transformed into something truly elegant.

This is the kind of dish I have eaten countless times while working remotely from Prague. There is something incredibly comforting about finding a warm bowl of Kulajda in a local bistro (or ever-buzzing hot spot like Kantyna, pictured below) on a rainy afternoon in the city. It has become a staple of my rotation, bridging the gap between my life in Canada and my time spent in the Czech Republic.

My version stays true to the classic spirit of the dish but introduces a few intentional twists that lean into my personal "high-low" philosophy. Traditionally, the soup relies on white vinegar for its signature punch, but I prefer using a combination of sour cream and a touch of dill pickle juice. The brine adds a complex, fermented depth that plays beautifully against the fresh herbs and cream.

You may have come to realize that I opt to use pickle brine in many ways in the kitchen. I say if you've got it (and you probably do), then use it!

The real secret to this specific recipe, however, is the focus on texture. While traditional preparations often keep the mushrooms soft within the broth, I choose to pan-fry hand-torn oyster mushrooms separately until they are deeply golden and meaty. Adding these crispy, savory bites back into the soup just before serving creates a contrast that makes every spoonful more interesting.

Stirring some sour cream into the pot also helps the soup achieve a velvety texture and just-tangy-enough flavour.

To finish the dish properly, you have to include the soft-boiled egg. It’s a traditional addition that transforms the soup into a filling meal, with the jammy yolk adding even more richness to the broth. It’s a perfect example of a rustic forest soup elevated for a modern table, and I hope it becomes as much of a favourite in your kitchen as it has come to be in mine.

How to Make Dan Clapson’s Czech-Style Kulajda

Ingredients

1 Tbsp canola oil

2 cups hand-torn oyster mushrooms

2 Tbsp salted butter

1 yellow onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 cups roughly chopped cremini mushrooms

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

6 cups good quality chicken stock (or vegetable stock)

3 white potatoes, peeled and finely diced

1 bay leaf

1 tsp chili flakes

Salt and pepper, to taste

¾ cup full-fat sour cream

2 Tbsp dill pickle juice (plus more if you want)

¼-½ cup finely chopped fresh dill

4 soft-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

Method

Start by preparing the mushrooms to ensure they have the perfect texture. Heat the canola oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Add the hand-torn oyster mushrooms in a single layer and cook, stirring only occasionally, until they are deeply golden and slightly crisp at the edges, which should take about 6 to 8 minutes. Season them lightly with salt and set them aside for later.

In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the diced onions and cook until they have softened, roughly 5 minutes, then stir in the minced garlic and cook for another 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the chopped cremini mushrooms and allow them to cook for a few more minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir well to ensure everything is thoroughly coated. Once the flour has been incorporated, whisk in the stock and add the diced potatoes, bay leaf, and chili flakes. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, which usually takes about 12 minutes.

Turn the heat down to low. In a small bowl, combine the pickle juice and sour cream, then stir this mixture into the soup. Taste the broth and add salt and pepper as needed. Fold in most of the fresh dill, reserving just a small amount to use as a final garnish, and keep the soup warm until you are ready to plate.

To serve, ladle the warm soup into bowls and top each with a portion of the pan-fried oyster mushrooms and one soft-boiled egg. Garnish with the remaining fresh dill and enjoy.