A Perfect Bite: Kantýna's mince-meat schnitzel in Prague

Folks may think Vienna’s schnitzel game is strong—and it is—but what the Czechs do exceptionally well is the mince-meat schnitzel.

I'm going to happily dub it the hearty, juicy, near-meatball-y cousin to the paper-thin, lemon-spritzed classic. You'll find it on some menus in Prague, but at Kantýna, it’s the kind of lunch you’ll daydream about while you’re chipping away at sightseeing in the morning.

Kantýna itself is a total vibe. It's essentially a cafeteria with a lot of flair— theatrical in the best way: part butcher counter, part canteen, but undisputedly a Prague hot spot, and for very good reason.

Upon entry, you'll be handed a ticket, which you then take to the food counter and bar, respectively, before finding your spot among the communal tables. It is rare to find this place anything less than busy-busy, packed with folks doing exactly what you are: eating hearty, eating quickly, and crushing a beer (or two). When the mince-meat schnitzel is on, that is the order, my friends. Trust me!

This isn’t the type of schnitzel that tries to be dainty. It’s built from seasoned minced pork, pressed into a thick, tender slab—akin to a slightly flattened (gigantic) meatball—then breaded and fried until the outside turns audibly crisp while the inside stays juicy. If you're lucky, there's some cheese added to the meat mixture, too. My god, it is delicious.

Dan Clapson enjoying mince-meat schnitzel and coleslaw at Kantýna in Prague

And then there’s the coleslaw, the truly unsung hero that makes the whole thing feel complete. Bright, crunchy, and perfectly creamy-meets-tangy, it acts like a palate reset between bites of the mince-meat schnitzel. The Hollander to the Rozanov, if you will.

(Typing that makes me ponder if I should add some more Heated Rivalry nods into my food writing? I say yes!)

If you’re the kind of eater who loves the intersection of tradition and pure pleasure, this is a “don’t overthink it” order. Next time you’re in Prague and craving something both classic and quietly unique, make a point of tracking down Kantýna’s mince-meat schnitzel with coleslaw (or potato salad) and feel happily satiated.