Calgary is a city that loves its steakhouses, and for very good reason. Sitting at the epicentre of Canadian beef country, we’re surrounded by farms producing some of the best beef in the world, often just a short drive from the city itself. Outside of places blessed with ideal oceanside access to seafood, few cities can claim this level of hyper-local protein. It’s a privilege the city built an entire dining culture around decades ago.

For years, much of the broader food world viewed Calgary through a narrow lens—you know, as a “steak and potatoes” city. It wasn’t a label Calgarians necessarily chose for themselves, but one that followed us through the ’80s, ’90s, and well into the 2000s. The evolution since then has been remarkable, as any food-loving Canadian now knows. The city's population diversified, global cuisines entered the limelight, and innovative chefs pushed modern techniques to the forefront, resulting in a far more expansive culinary identity.

And yet, steakhouse culture remains an undeniable part of Calgary’s food DNA—one that genuinely sets it apart from other cities, for better or for worse. (Vegans, look away!)

That long-standing steakhouse tradition takes many forms in the city, from grand marble-adorned dining rooms (Caesar's Steakhouse) to vaulted ceilings and wood-panelling-heavy spaces (Smuggler's Calgary), and throwback-vibing lounges. At Wellington’s of Calgary Steakhouse, one of the most memorable bites isn’t found in the main dining room at all, but tucked away in the lounge.

Photo via Wellingtons of Calgary's Facebook page.

Wellington’s has an old-school sensibility, though not in a fully vintage, mid-century way. It gives late ’80s to early ’90s energy thanks to its cursive logo, casual lounge-bar setup, and an interior that’s more understated than the grand, theatrical steakhouses of previous decades. It’s plush without being ornate, comfortable without trying too hard. In many ways, that aesthetic feels like it’s just about ready to come back into vogue—maybe in a few years.

Enough about steakhouses. The must-order dish here is found only on the lounge side. The short dry ribs are a signature item and should be ordered without hesitation. Sometimes my friends and I pop in just for an order or two (and a classic dirty martini or two, of course) to kick off a weekend night.

They’re clearly marinated well in advance, allowing the bone-in chunks of short rib to stay juicy after being deep-fried. Every time, they arrive piping hot with an exterior that’s impressively crisp—so give them a minute before sinking your teeth into one. Too often, bone-in dry ribs sacrifice tenderness for crunch, or arrive soft and greasy in the name of moisture. These strike the balance.

Now, being of a certain age and having grown up in Saskatchewan, I was practically raised on boneless dry ribs at family restaurants and pubs. I’ve talked about those “Prairie-style” ribs and my love for them before on shows like The Social, so with that in mind, I seldom give praise to bone-in dry ribs—let alone order them—but these ones really do knock it out of the park.

Why? Achieving that contrast between shatteringly crisp exterior and tender interior is no small feat. A healthy squeeze of fresh lemon over top helps balance the natural richness of the ribs, and then you’re off to the races.

Writing this all out has made one thing very clear: I should probably head to Wellington’s of Calgary for an order right now.

One important note before you go: the short dry ribs are lounge-only. So if you’re under 18 (I mean, do teenagers even read Eat North?), you’ll need to place an order to-go.

Wellington’s of Calgary

10325 Bonaventure Dr SE, Calgary, AB T2J 7E4

Open Mondays to Saturdays 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays 4 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Visit wellingtonsofcalgary.com for full menu details and to make a reservation.